Barrow, Alaska

 

Barrow, Alaska  Tuesday, July 22, 2003

Early day – up at 5:30 to catch an 8am 1 ½ hr. flight to Barrow – the northernmost point of land in Alaska.  Don’t even know where to start talking about Barrow – 60% of the 4,500 population is native Eskimo and we couldn’t figure out why the other 40% of outsiders would want to live there.  Granted, it was a dreary, rainy day, but the streets were all mud with no sidewalks anywhere and no grass – the front and back yards were just dirt and mud.  Houses were downtrodden – many we couldn’t tell whether they were abandoned or inhabited.        Nothing is thrown away – there is nowhere to throw it, so everything is lying around used and unused.  Saw a regular car put on top of tank treads – stuff is used here in unusual ways.

The natives still hunt whale, seal and caribou for food, clothing, and tradition.  They also buy regular western-style goods at the local store, so the depressing nature of the town is not due to just poverty.  We toured the town with a local native  who is a whaleboat captain (an honored position in the community) in a school bus  and attended a native dance that included a blanket toss.  The locals and about 25 of the visitors helped to hold the blanket and tossed this poor little girl at least 20 feet in the air – it is a celebration ritual for the natives when the whale harvest is good.    

Gasoline for cars (they do have quite a few) is over $3.00 per gallon and our choice of restaurants included Mexican, Chinese and Korean.  We even tried mukluk (whale blubber with skin attached) – Jack liked it, but I chewed once and that was it. I’d never be able to make it through the bug and slug fests on the TV show Survivor. 

Three brave souls took the challenge and became a member of the polar bear club – entry requirement is a fully submerged dunk in the Arctic Ocean!     

To think that these folks spend 8 months a year in darkness in addition to the depressing environment we saw in mid-summer 24-hour daylight is unimaginable.  Needless to say, Barrow is not on our “revisit” list, but it was one of those places you want to see (once).  It also is one of the most unique and interesting places we have visited.

 

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