Whittier and Seward on the Kenai Peninsula

Whittier  Tuesday, July 29, 2003

Drove the car down 50 miles and through a 3-mile, one-lane tunnel to Whittier.  Cars share the tunnel with the train – sure glad their computerized controls of tunnel access were working correctly.  I wouldn’t want to meet a train in that narrow tunnel!  In Whittier, we took an all-day cruise on a high-speed catamaran (40 mph) to 26 glaciers – it was great. 

 The one glacier was 400 feet tall and 300 feet deep under the water and 35 miles long.    We first glimpsed the glacier about 35 miles away.  At one point the glacier seemed just a short distance away when the captain said we were still 1 ½ miles!    We saw a Bald Eagle, a pod of Orca whales, harbor seals and sea otters.  A great day!

 

Seward  Wednesday, July 30, 2003

We drove the RV and car back down the peninsula on Seward Highway past the cutoff for Whittier 90 miles to the town of Seward.   The drive is beautiful, with mountains with small glaciers on one side and the inlet on the other side.  Stopped at one lookout where small white beluga whales are reportedly seen at high tide following the salmon into the inlet, but there weren’t any when we were there.  The small town of Seward is a fishing and tourist village – pretty small harbor that also has a cruise ship dock where 100 ships a year at the end (or beginning) of the Inside Passage cruise.  Seward’s waterfront was devastated by the tsunami from the 1964 earthquake. Instead of rebuilding the waterfront, the town turned it into a waterfront campground; and we were able to get a spot right on the water with the mountains in the background – one of the prettiest spots we have camped.  Drove around the small town, had a fabulous dinner at a small restaurant overlooking the small boat harbor.  

 Seward  Thursday, July 31, 2003

Spent a couple of hours at the excellent Sea life Center watching all types of fish, plus endangered Stellar sea lions, harbor seals and Puffins.   We walked around the old downtown and stopped at the library to check email (but we couldn’t send any attachments, so no journal distributions here). The weather is beautiful and again we spent time just sitting and watching the hundreds of fishing boats, sailboats and tour boats going in and out of the harbor and watching the gulls and cormorants.  A sea otter regularly hangs out in the inlet right in front of the RV where we can watch him dive down to get his dinner and then lazes around on his back to crack open the shells on his chest and eat.  We were really able to slow down here (even Jack) and relax and watch the world go by.

 Seward  Friday, August 1, 2003

I had to take another conference call for a couple of hours and then we walked up to the harbor to take a short 2 ½ hour wildlife cruise in the bay.  We saw cliffs with thousands and thousands of gulls, terns, cormorants, puffins and other birds.  We also saw a large group of endangered Stellar sea lions (one of two groups in the area), more otters, and some of the most beautiful scenery ever.  After the cruise, we headed 3 miles out of town to Exit Glacier. This glacier is similar to one we saw near Jasper on the Icefields Parkway (seems ages ago) where you can walk up to the edge.  That glacier was rather smooth, but this one had giant spires and deep crevices – incredible.  We hiked a couple of miles to a viewpoint above the glacier to get some much needed exercise and take some great pictures. Back to our RV for dinner and watch the boats, the otter and the gulls.    

 Seward to Soldotna  Saturday, August 2, 2003

Woke up to bright sun streaming across the bay and wishing this wasn’t our last day in Seward.  There are two TV channels here and they keep switching around – for a couple of hours one channel carries NBC, and then switches to UGN.  Lots of very old TV reruns and the other channel seems to carry mostly Alaska talk shows interspersed with wrestling.  Hmmmm..    Jack has been avidly reading SEABISCUIT and we’re so busy sitting and watching the world go by, we don’t even miss TV – at least for these few days.

 Drove back up the Seward Highway to the Sterling Highway cutoff that takes us back down the west side of the peninsula to Homer.   At the junction was a pretty pond with marshes around it where we stopped for lunch. A short way from there is a small creek where the red and king salmon were returning to spawn.  We watched these huge salmon try to get up the last two falls in this small creek before they reach the calm water to spawn and then die. 

After lunch we drove through the major salmon fishing areas of the peninsula – fishermen shoulder to shoulder in every river and creek along the way.  We stopped for the night in Soldotna – this area of the peninsula has Russian background and there are still Russian Orthodox churches in many of the small towns. 

The campground is just a large gravel parking lot behind a motel, but they have high-speed internet, so we can send lots of pictures!  This area also has views of three massive snow-covered volcanic peaks, but the weather is semi-cloudy and hazy, so the pictures are not very good.  We’ll get a second shot at pictures of these mountains when we return in a few days. 

 

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